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This works as a reference for how much you turned the nut and also a way to abort the mission if you need to go back to where it was. Mark the current location-Use a marker to put a line on the top of the nut, so you will know where you started from.If you strip out the nut, you won’t be able to adjust the rod anymore, and it could be very difficult to fix. If it’s close but not perfect, don’t use it. Only use the correct truss rod adjustment tool-Be sure the truss rod adjustment tool (Allen key, truss rod wrench, etc.) you are using is the proper size.You can see the printout and learn more about how I am able to accomplish a perfect set-up in my online guitar physics and set-up course. Both of those guitars used the Hot Rod truss rod. The PLEK returned a report that the fingerboard was perfect and needed no adjustments on two of my scanned guitars. You can check out some computer printouts of my fingerboard and fretwork as scanned by a PLEK laser. They have been great at keeping my guitar necks stable and resistant to fluctuation from string tension or changes in humidity. I have been using the Hot Rods from StewMac in conjunction with two carbon fiber reinforcement rods for over 20 years. The only thing I add to their steps is that I put some silicone in the middle of the rod slot, and in between the rods themselves in the center as well, to keep those areas quiet too, just in case.
#Whatsize are fender truss rod in acoustic how to
has some good info on how to do it right- Installation Instructions. Thankfully, I have never had any problems on a finished guitar, but it is something to be sure you do properly when installing the rod. One thing to mention, though, is that double-action truss rods can buzz in the neck (vibrate sympathetically) when there is no tension on them, if not installed right. You might find it’s perfect for your guitar, and that a more traditional type of single-action compression truss rod fits you and your style just fine. It’s probably in more guitars than any other type-I just wanted to point that out because what I’m sharing here is my own personal opinion and experience.
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Many people only use and love the single-action truss rod. I use this forward bow feature most during the guitar-building process to get the neck perfect for fingerboard leveling and fretwork, which I discuss in my online guitar-making course. Being the crazy perfectionist that I am, I wanted control of the neck in the forward direction as well. But still, it only provided me with the ability to move the neck back against the string tension. This was instantly a big improvement in adjustability. I switched to using a double-action truss rod, but with one-way adjustability at first (shown above, left). Because the wood is constantly fluctuating, I began to feel like it was a bit too risky using this type of truss rod, never knowing exactly how the neck would respond over time. Obviously, the wood provides most of the strength as the neck supports the string tension, but the truss rod must be there to provide consistent adjustment and stability. If the wood near the adjustment nut starts to crush under pressure, it can become impossible to make any adjustments to the neck. Not only that, but because wood is always different in density and strength, with a truss rod that relies on the wood itself as part of the system, the neck’s stability becomes a bit of a gamble. Still, when the guitar has very low action, it can be quite noticeable to a discerning player if the humidity fluctuates a great deal and could even lead to annoying fret buzz or high action, depending on the humidity level present. Most of the time, these movements are subtle.
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If the wood expands because the humidity increases, that’s equivalent to tightening the nut on the truss rod and can cause the neck to move. The wood in the neck itself functions as part of the truss rod system with the single-action truss rod. Wood constantly does change dimensionally as it absorbs and loses moisture based on the relative humidity it is exposed to. Because this rod is compressing the wood as the nut is tightened, it is vulnerable to being affected (more than other types of truss rods) if the wood changes dimension over time due to compression or in response to its environment. I quickly found out that this truss rod is much more susceptible to the changes in its environment’s humidity. This not only adds as little weight to the neck as possible, but it can also sometimes keep the tone sounding more woody and natural. The great thing about this type of truss rod is that it is very lightweight and allows the upper part of the channel to be routed into the neck to be filled back in with wood. I used a standard single-action truss rod. When I began building archtop guitars, I started in the traditional way, at least in the area of neck design.